Pont d’Alexandre III to For You Page: the Expansive Reach of Maison Margiela
Simple piano chords. Foggy streets. Sewer poles that line the walls. One by one, porcelain dolls with longing expressions strut across the stage in dim lighting and eerie music, while wearing haute couture made of mesh. The glow of the year’s first full moon illuminates the silhouettes of corset-fitted, padded suits. This is the beginning of the 2024 Maison Margiela’s Haute Couture Spring Summer Show.
Haute Couture, according to Merriam Webster, is simply “the houses or designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions for women.” But for John Galliano— one of modern fashion’s most innovative yet controversial figures— haute couture is more than that. Born in 1960, the British designer “was fired from Dior” in 2011. After going to rehab for his hate crime convictions, he gradually emerged back into the fashion world with an offer to be the mastermind behind Maison Margiela.
At the 2024 Haute Couture show, models were dressed in ludicrously huge wigs and statuesque clothing of dark mesh with green, black, gray, white and blue undertones. Located “under the Pont d’Alexandre III after dark,” the venue was designed to emulate a dimly lit 1920’s to 30’s Parisian bar (Maison Margiela). This setting pays homage not to the romantic Paris that we see in all tourist guides, but the elusive city only privy to Parisian natives and those watching the show. From the decision of the location to the background music, the detailed set design paved the way for an eerie yet captivating performance.
As the models strutted, the screens drew attention to the their faces, more specifically their “porcelain doll” makeup. Done by legendary makeup artist and brand owner, Pat McGrath, it features the effects of glass skin, bright blue eyeshadow, thin eyebrows, and bright pink cheeks. This collaboration between Pat McGrath and John Galliano is a homecoming, as they worked together extensively during Galliano’s run at Dior Couture from 1997 to 2011.
But why did the 2024 Spring Summer show become so viral and famous? Some may say it is because Generation Z picked up on McGrath’s makeup through TikTok, but the main reason is because the Spring Summer show was a show. The theatrics behind the looks and runway was a breath of fresh air, as Galliano transformed his couture into an immersive experience. Not only was the show extremely well catered to Galliano’s lux audience, it was also highly interactive. Once the models entered the wooden runway, there was a certain stillness and mystery in the air. The models did not do their traditional strut— some sat on the audience members’ laps, paused and stared deeply into their eyes, and moved their arms as if they were dancing on pointe. The show’s nonlinear message was further echoed by the models not walking in a conventional line, harkening back to the dramatic and iconic fashion shows of the 90s. Galliano returned to his roots, as well as Maison Margiela’s roots of over the top and theatrical performances. To give an example: the Dior SS 1998 Haute Couture took place down the steps of the Opéra Palais Garnier in Paris, adorned with enormous yet delicately crafted gowns.
The immense success of Galliano’s recent show is a sign that we should bring back extravagant and exaggerated fashion shows. His excessive care to detail is the reason why the styles presented will be remembered in history.
