Fashion Speaks When We Don’t

“My clothes have a story. They have an identity. They have a character and a purpose. That’s why they become classics. Because they keep on telling a story. They are still telling it” 

~ Vivienne Westwood 

They say clothes hold memories and scent but also stories of the one who made them. Stories of people's communities, culture, heritage, or beliefs. I could see that, amidst all the chaos, backstage at New York Fashion Week. Designers, models and stylists are storytellers who convey emotions through every stitch, weave and pattern. More than just fabric upon a body, fashion  is a universal, non-verbal language that speaks to our shared cultures, identities, and societal values that transcend centuries of historical communities.

Fashion is a set of Silent Stories 

I find it interesting how we can infer so much about a person through their choice of clothing, such as their personality, mood, social status, or religion. For instance, Sikhs wearing turbans, women in hijabs, jews in a kippah. We can also notice how geography can reflect through clothes.; A lady in a saree might be from a South Asian community, whereas beachy styles like loose, brightly colored aloha shirts with floral patterns are often seen in coastal regions. Jeans,  cowboy hats, boots, and leather jackets are reminiscent of the Western US plains. 

Fashion also acts as a cue to one’s role in society. Professional attire such as tailored suits, pencil skirts, blazers, and button-downs tells us that the wearer might be a lawyer or  stock broker at Wall Street, a white coat implies a doctor and vestments implies a priest. Baggy jeans, oversized hoodies, and sneakers are typical of younger demographics. Fashion often reflects what subcultures a person aligns with, thereby helping people create a community and foster a sense of belonging amongst like minded-individuals.

Subcultures are groups of people who share similar values, beliefs, consumption patterns, and lifestyles that set them apart from mainstream culture. They may differ on the basis of age, gender, sexuality, political opinions, or racial matters. With the rise of various subcultures in the mid-20th century, people have started dressing themselves in particular ways to align themselves with their subculture’s ideologies. For instance, 

• Emo Subculture: Short for “emotional hardcore”, emo subculture expresses emotions through fashion. 

  • This subculture originally rose as a movement which was deeply ingrained in emotional self-expression and introspection through music. With time, the emo subculture evolved beyond music and added fashion as another form of expression. This group mostly defines itself with a darker theme palette, especially black, which is paired with bright and bold colours like red, electric blue, purple, or white to create a contrast and establish  a melancholic impression.They wear skinny jeans and Converse sneakers with “emo” t-shirts. 

• Skater Subculture: Skateboarding, commonly referred to as 'kating', was more than just a sport. In the early 1950s, this subculture rose as a movement at the intersection of practicality and personal expression. 

  • Skaters required clothes that would expand their range of movement and lend them durability needed to perform stunts. Eventually, the fashion of these skaters began to solidify, turning into an aesthetic trend for even those who did not engage with the sport. Loose-fitted jeans, such as mommy jeans or cargo pants, became a popular trademark of skater style. Baggy t-shirts, especially from Element or Thrasher, were also associated showed the brands’ association with the skater subculture. Vans and DC became popular shoe brands found in a skater’s closet. DIY is also deeply rooted in the culturesystem. They not only personalize or vandalize  their skateboards, ramps, or skating parks, but also rebel against consumerism through hand-painted graphics on t-shirts, patched clothes etc. 

Today’s fashion elements often play with time by creating a fusion between the past and the present. When I interned for NYFW, many designers portrayed their heritage through the items they created Examples include the use of a kimono as a blazer or coat, animal-printed fabric or middle eastern dresses with pants, and so on. Some designers even use social or natural elements and expand them into complex ideas, turning something as ordinary as the human body into a high-fashion concept. Robert Wun created a fashion show using unique concepts such as weather, time, and the four layers of the human body- skin, flesh, bones, and soul. 

From whatI hear, many people misconceptualized that the clothes presented on the runways are designed to be wearables. "Who would wear that?" they wonder. In reality, runway collections are typically not meant to be worn. Instead, they serve as artworks, inspiring audiences with their thematic designs and symbolisms.  

Marc Jacobs once said, “To me, clothing is a form of self-expression - they are hints about who you are in what you wear.” Fashion speaks our opinions and values even when we don’t, and this has been showcased throughout history. For those familiar, let’s not forget Princess Diana’s black revenge dress after Prince Charles admitted to adultery in 1994. In the 1700s, Marie Antoinette stepped away from conventional heavy dresses and gowns, opting for something lighter that prioritized comfort and movement. Every piece of clothing speaks, down from the colour of socks to the shape of your glasses, like a dialogue exchanged between the stylist and the audience. 

So next time you decide on what to wear, think about what you wish to convey about yourself. In the end, fashion is not just about looking good - it is also about showing a story.